دين مولن / BBC
توجهت إلى وسط البلد، المكتظ كعادته بالبشر، من رجال الأعمال في كامل هندامهم وأناقتهم يشقون طريقهم وسط شوارع العاصمة التي اشتهرت بالاختناق المروري، إلى الشباب على دراجاتهم يحملون فوق رؤوسهم الخبز الطازج المرصوص على الأقفاس الخشبية.
واجتزت زقاقا يفضي إلى ميدان عابدين، وتأملت فخامة وروعة طراز العمارات ذات الشرفات المصممة بعناية فائقة والمصاريع الخشبية، التي تعطيك لمحة عن الحياة في هذه المدينة المزدحمة في الحقبة الذهبية ما بين القرنين التاسع عشر والعشرين.
وتستقر أمام العمارات عربة طعام صغيرة معدنية محاطة برف صغير يضع عليه الزبائن أطباقهم ليتناولوا طعامهم على عجالة، ورُصت علب اللحم المحفوظ في الرف العلوي، لإضافتها إلى الشطائر أو مزجها بالبيض.
وفي الرف الذي يليه رُص البيض والأطباق المعدنية وأكياس من الخبز البلدي الذي يحظى بمكانة كبيرة في قلوب المصريين، وبضعة أطباق تحوي الفلافل (الطعمية) المصرية الرائعة، التي لم تنل حظها من الشهرة، مع أن الكثيرين من ذوّاقي الطعام يصفونها بأنها أشهى فلافل في العالم.
ولا تفارق الابتسامة وجه أمير، صاحب عربة الطعام، أثناء إعداد الطعام. وراقبته وهو يشكل خليط الفلافل في صورة أقراص صغيرة بأطرف أصابعة في سرعة فائقة إلى حد أنك لا تكاد ترى يديه عند تشكيل القرص ووضعه في الزيت.
HAMADA ELRASAM الطعمية المصنوعة من الفول والأعشاب والخضروات الطازجة خضراء من الداخل ومفعمة بالنكهات
ولم تكد تمر بضع دقائق حتى قدم لي طبقا من الخبز البلدي المحشو بأقراص الفلافل الساخنة المغطاة بشرائح الطماطم والخس وقطرات من الطحينة، وإلى جوارها الخضروات المخللة بأشكالها وألوانها، كان أطيبها مذاقا، الفلفل الأخضر الرفيع المتبل بالشطة والكمون والملح، وإن كان الكمون أكسب طعمه شيئا من المرارة.
وكانت شطيرة الطعمية مثالا للبساطة. إذ اشتهرت البلدان المجاورة، كسوريا ولبنان، بإتقان صناعة شطائر الفلافل، فهم يتفنون في إضافة مختلف المقبلات والصلصات، مثل سلطة الكرنب والجزر، وسلطة الطماطم المتبلة بالأعشاب واللفت المخلل.
ولا شك أن شطائر الفلافل الشامية طيبة المذاق، لكنها، في رأيي، لا تقارن بنظيرتها المصرية. فقد حازت الفلافل التي أعدتها سلسلة مطاعم “زوبة” للوجبات السريعة على لقب أفضل فلافل بلا منازع في مهرجان الفلافل بلندن عام 2016، متفوقة على منافستيها الفلسطينية واللبنانية.
وربما يرجع ذلك إلى أن الفلافل المصرية تمتاز عن غيرها بمكوناتها المميزة. وبينما تُعد الفلافل في معظم دول العالم بالحمص، فإن الفلافل في مصر قوامها الفول، الذي يعطي نتائج أفضل عند القلي ويكسب الفلافل هشاشة وخفة تميزها عن مثيلاتها المصنوعة من الحمص.
وتتميز الفلافل المصرية أيضا بأنها غنية بالأعشاب الطازجة والخضروات، كالكسبرة الخضراء والكرّات والبقدونس، بالإضافة إلى البصل والثوم والكسبرة الجافة، ولهذا تجدها خضراء من الداخل ومفعمة بنكهات أكثر من مثيلاتها في البلدان المجاورة.
وتقول كلوديا رودن، عالمة إنسانيات متخصصة في الطعام وفنون الطهي: “أوافق تماما على أن الفلافل المصرية هي أفضل فلافل في العالم، وأنصح دائما كل من يزور مصر بتذوقها. وأرى أن الفول يكسبها قواما أفضل، لأنه أكثر نعومة، فضلا عن أنها غنية بالأعشاب، وهذا يجعلها أفضل مذاقا”.
HAMADA ELRASAM يبدي أمير الذي يقف على عربة طعام في القاهرة ابتسامة تحت شاربه الرمادي، أثناء إعداد الفلافل
وتربط المصريين بالفول علاقة وطيدة ضاربة بجذورها في أعماق التاريخ، إذ أن الفول المدمس الممزوج بالثوم والكمون وعصير الليمون وزيت الزيتون هو أحد الأطباق التي لا تخلو منها مائدة مصرية إلى جانب الطعمية والخبز البلدي. ولا يقتصر تناول هذه الأطباق على وجبه الإفطار فقط، بل يتناولها المصريون أيضا في أي وقت على مدار اليوم.
وكتب مؤرخ الطعام، كين ألبالا، في كتابه “تاريخ الفول”، إن تناول الفول المدمس في مصر أصبح بمثابة تعبير عن الهوية القومية في مواجهة زحف الأطباق الحديثة إلى مائدة الإفطار المعاصرة.
لكن لا أحد يعرف متى رسخ الفول أقدامه في مصر، في الوقت الذي وقعت فيه أغلب الدول المجاورة في غرام الحمص.
وقد ظهر الحمص في كتاب لوصفات الطهي يعود للعصور الوسطى، بعنوان “كنز ثمين من المزايا والتنوع على المائدة: وصفات الطهي المصرية في القرن الرابع عشر”، والعجيب أنه أضيف إلى وصفات أكثر مقارنة بالفول.
HAMADA ELRASAM يشيد الكثير من ذوّاقي الطعام بالفلافل المصرية التي تقدم مع الخبز البلدي ويصفونها بأنها أفضل فلافل في العالم
وترى نوال نصر الله، الباحثة والكاتبة في مجال الطعام التي ترجمت الكتاب إلى الإنجليزية، أن الحمص كان يعد من المكونات التي تزين مائدة الأثرياء آنذاك، على عكس الفول الذي كان يعد طعام الفقراء. وربما كان مؤلفو كتب الطهي في العصور الوسطى، كما هو الحال اليوم، يحبون التباهي بأطباقهم الفاخرة.
وترى نوال أن المصريين فضلوا استخدام الفول على الحمص في أطباقهم لأنه كان ينمو بكثرة في مصر، في حين أن الحمص ربما كان أكثر وفرة في بلاد الشام، ولهذا استخدموه في أطباقهم. وقد استُخدم الفول منذ القدم في شمال أفريقيا لأسباب اقتصادية، فهو رخيص ومتوفر.
ويشاع أن شعبية الفول في مصر مردها ارتباطه بقدماء المصريين، إذ يتفاخر المصريون بأن الفول المدمس والطعمية هما “طعام الفراعنة”، وقد ذكرت الكثير من السجلات التاريخية أنه عُثر على بقايا حبوب الفول في مقابر الفراعنة، ويقال إن بعض النقوش الفرعونية تظهر مصريين يطهون الفلافل.
لكن منة الله الدري، عالمة مصريات ونباتات أثرية بجامعة وارسو في بولندا، تشكك في هذه المزاعم، وتقول إن بقايا الفول التي عثر عليها في المقابر الفرعونية ربما تكون قد سقطت من العمال في الموقع أثناء عمليات الحفر والتنقيب التي جرى بعضها منذ 100 عام مضى، ولعل العمال كانوا يأكلون الفول المدمس في مواقع الحفر.
وترى أن الفول لم ينتشر في مصر إلا في عهد الرومان، ولهذا عُثر على بقايا حبوب الفول في الكثير من المواقع الأثرية التي تعود إلى العصر الروماني، وفي أكثر المواقع الأثرية التي تعود إلى العصور الوسطى.
HAMADA ELRASAM عشق المصريين للفول، الذي يستخدم في صناعة الفول المدمس والطعمية، ضارب بجذوره في أعماق التاريخ
وعُثر على بقايا حبوب الفول أيضا في مواقع أثرية غير متوقعة، مثل المعبد الجنائزي لملوك الأسرة الخامسة في منطقة أبو صير على مشارف القاهرة، الذي شيد في الفترة ما بين عام 2465 وعام 2325 قبل الميلاد. وتقول الدري إن وجود الفول في هذا الموقع يثير الشكوك لأنه ليس ثمة سبب يدعو لوجوده.
ويرى بعض علماء الآثار أن حبوب الفول التي ظهرت في النقوش الفرعونية قد تكون على الأرجح حب العزيز، الذي يقال إنه كان أحد الأطعمة الأساسية التي يعتمد عليها المصريون القدماء.
وقد احتدم الجدل حول أصول الفلافل وإتقان صناعتها، إذ تدعي كل من لبنان وفلسطين وسوريا ومصر أنها مهد الفلافل، وفي الوقت نفسه صنفت إسرائيل الفلافل كطبق قومي وتؤكد ارتباطه الوثيق بالهوية القومية الإسرائيلية.
وأمام عربته الخضراء، كان أمير يتحدث بحماسة شديدة عن أسبقية بلاده في ابتكار الفلافل. ويعد أمير الفلافل بالطريقة المصرية منذ 48 عاما.
ويقول أمير إن كل من يتذوق الفلافل المصرية المصنوعة بالفول يهوى مذاقها، مشيرا إلى أن الفول يُزرع في مصر منذ عهد الفراعنة، وليس الحمص. ولعل أمير يكرر نفس المقولة الشائعة التي تستند إلى أدلة خاطئة.
ويجمع معظم المؤرخين المعاصرين على أن الفلافل نشأت في مصر، وقد تعود أصولها إلى الأقباط المصريين الذين كانوا يستعيضون بالفول عن اللحم في أوقات الصيام.
وترى نوال أن الجدال برمته حول أصل الفلافل أصبح مسيّسا. وتقول: “لا أنظر للطعام من هذا المنظور القومي الضيق. صحيح أن إسرائيل جعلت الفلافل طبقا إسرائيليا قوميا، لكنني أعتقد أنه لا يمكن لأحد الاستئثار بأطباق بعينها، بل أظن أنها ملك للمنطقة بأكملها”.
وربما يوافق معظم الناس على أن الطعام يخضع لذائقة كل فرد على حدة، ولا يمكن وصف طعام بأنه الأفضل في العالم. لكن الإقبال الكبير على متاجر وعربات بيع الفلافل في القاهرة يدل على أن المصريين ليس لديهم أدنى شك في تميز الفلافل المصرية عن نظيرتها المصنوعة من الحمص. وبعد أن تذوقت الفلافل المصرية المقرمشة بنفسي داخل الخبز البلدي الطري، أوافقهم الرأي تماما.
يمكنك قراءة الموضوع الأصلي على موقع BBC Travel
المزيد عن : سوريا/إسرائيل/الغذاء/لبنان
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I believe what you postedtypedsaidbelieve what you postedwrotebelieve what you postedwrotebelieve what you postedwroteWhat you postedtypedsaid was very logicala lot of sense. But, what about this?think about this, what if you were to write a killer headlinetitle?content?wrote a catchier title? I ain’t saying your content isn’t good.ain’t saying your content isn’t gooddon’t want to tell you how to run your blog, but what if you added a titlesomethingheadlinetitle that grabbed a person’s attention?maybe get a person’s attention?want more? I mean %BLOG_TITLE% is a little plain. You might look at Yahoo’s home page and watch how they createwrite news headlines to get viewers to click. You might add a related video or a related picture or two to get readers interested about what you’ve written. Just my opinion, it might bring your postsblog a little livelier.
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