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حكاية المسجد الذي يعاد بناؤه سنويا

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BBC / يعد “الجامع الكبير” في بلدة جينيه، الذي يقع في منطقة نائية قاحلة في الصحراء الحارقة جنوبي مالي، بناء جذابا وفريدا، وهو مقام على مساحة طولها 91 مترا ويرتفع إلى 20 مترا، وهو أضخم بناية مشيدة من الطوب الطيني في العالم.

يوصف المسجد بأنه أجمل مثال على طراز العمارة السودانية السواحيلية الذي يميز تلك المنطقة، كما يتميز باستخدام الطوب الطيني والسقالات الخشبية. ويعتبر المسجد بلا شك أهم موقع في بلدة “جينيه” المدرجة على قائمة اليونسكو للتراث العالمي.

PETER YEUNG .

تأثير إسلامي قديم

أصبحت بلدة جينيه الواقعة في واد بين نهري النيجر وباني مأهولة بالسكان منذ 250 سنة قبل الميلاد، الأمر الذي يجعلها واحدة من أقدم المدن في منطقة أفريقيا جنوب الصحراء الكبرى.

ازدهرت البلدة بين القرنين الثالث عشر والثامن عشر كملتقى رئيسي لنقل البضائع كالذهب والملح، كما وفدت إليها القوافل التجارية ورجال الدين والكتبة، الذين دعوا إلى الإسلام في المنطقة. وسرعان أن أصبحت جينيه مركزا لتعليم الإسلام، وشُيد البناء الحالي للمسجد الكبير عام 1907 على موقع المسجد الأصلي الذي تعرض للإهمال خلال القرن التاسع عشر.

ويبرز جليا التأثير الإسلامي في الوقت الراهن، إذ يقوم التلاميذ عادة بدراسة القرآن في الشوارع.

PAL DE ROOS

يضم “الجامع الكبير” ثلاث مآذن مميزة، وتبرز خارج جدران المبنى مئات القوائم الخشبية من النخيل والتي تعرف باسم “تورون” أي الحبال.

ويحتفظ المسجد ببرودته خلال الأيام شديدة الحرارة. ويدعم السقف والجدران سقيفة مكونة من 90 قائما خشبيا، وهو ما يوفر عازلا عن حرارة الشمس، بينما توجد ثقوب في السقف تسمح بمرور الهواء النظيف في موسم الصيف والجفاف، ويمكن سدها بأغطية طينية أثناء موسم المطر. وتتسع قاعة الصلاة في المسجد لثلاثة آلاف شخص.

PAUL DE ROOS

إعادة بناء سنوية احتفالية

يُعاد بناء جدران “الجامع الكبير” في جينيه في شهر أبريل/نيسان من كل عام في يوم ملحمي يطلق عليه بالفرنسية “لا كريبيساج” (أي إعادة كساء المبنى بالطين).

ويتطلب البناء صيانة سنوية كما هو متبع مع بيوت البلدة التقليدية المبنية بالطين اللبن، وذلك قبل أن يحل موسم المطر القصير شديد الغزارة، والذي يأتي غالبا في يوليو/تموز وأغسطس/آب من كل عام، إذ يهطل في هذه الفترة معظم المعدل السنوي للأمطار البالغ ألف ملليمتر.

وتضمن هذه المبادرة الجماعية الهائلة صمود المسجد أمام الانهيار خلال موسم المطر، على الرغم من اختلاف شكله بعض الشيء في كل عام.

PETER YEUNG

ليلة ساهرة

لا يعد الاحتفال مناسبة مهمة للصيانة بهدف حماية جدران المسجد من التشقق والانهيار فحسب، بل هو احتفال يعكس معتقدات وتراث أهالي جينيه.

يسود البلدة، في الليلة التي تسبق إعادة البناء والترميم، حالة من الترقب والاستنفار، ويشارك أهل البلدة في مهرجان للرقص والغناء يُعرف بليلة السهر. وتدوي في الشوارع المضاءة بنور القمر صيحات ودقات طبول قبل أن تُطلق الصافرة حوالي الساعة الرابعة فجرا ليبدأ الحدث السنوي الأهم.

PAUL DE ROOS

منافسة مجتمعية

بمجرد بدء عملية “إعادة كساء المبنى بالطين” تتنافس فرق من كل أحياء جينيه لإعادة كساء المسجد بعناية ودقة.

يتسلق الشباب واجهة المسجد، تحت إشراف مجموعة من 80 بناءً، حيث تحظى مهنة البناء باحترام كبير في جينيه، حاملين السلال المصنوعة من الخيزران مملوءة بالطين المبلل ويكسون الجدران بطبقات سميكة من الطين.

وتتنافس الفرق فيما بينها لإكمال القسم الخاص بكل منها أولا، والفوز في هذه المنافسة مصدر فخر حقيقي للمتنافسين الذين يتسلم الفائز منهم أيضا جائزة مالية بالعملة المحلية (تعادل نحو 68.5 جنيه إسترليني) وهو مبلغ كبير في بلدة يبلغ دخل الفرد فيها أقل من جنيه استرليني واحد في اليوم.

PAUL DE ROOS

مزيج من الأجساد

يساهم المجتمع بأكمله في هذا الجهد، ولكل مجموعة دور مختلف، وبالإضافة إلى أعمال الترميم يقوم رجال بمهمة تحضير وإعداد مادة البناء المعروفة باسم “بانكو”، وهي مزيج من الطين الناعم من الأنهار القريبة، وقش الأرز، ومسحوق الباوباب (شجر ضخم ينبت في البلاد الحارة) وزُبدة الشيا والماء. ويتحركون في المكان بنشاط كبير، ويضعون كميات كبيرة من البانكو في سلال الخيزران ويذهبون بها إلى المسجد، وسرعان أن تصبح أجساد العاملين بعد وقت قصير ملطخة بالكامل بالطين.

PAUL DE ROOS

يوم مليء بالنشاط مع وقت للهو

وفي ذلك اليوم الاحتفالي يُسمح للنساء بدخول المسجد، وإحضار الماء من النهر وخلطه بالمكونات الأخرى لصنع طين البانكو.

كما يساهم الأطفال أيضا في هذا المجهود بحمل سلال الطين ومساعدة العاملين في البناء، لكن الكثيرين منهم لا يفعلون شيئا سوى أنهم ببساطة يتراكضون ويلعبون.

وبعد نحو خمس ساعات من بدء هذه العملية، تشرق شمس الصباح لتضيء المسجد الذي اكتست جدرانه بالطين الجديد والذي يكتمل في العادة بحلول التاسعة صباحا.

PAUL DE ROOS

تراث مالي الحي

تقول منظمة الأمم المتحدة للتعليم والعلوم والثقافة “اليونسكو”: “تتميز بلدة جينيه بطراز معماري فريد وجدير بالاهتمام، فضلا عن نسيج مدني وتناغم نادر”، والمسجد الكبير يظهر ذلك كله.

وعلى الرغم من تاريخ المسجد الذي يمتد إلى قرون طويلة، فإنه يظل جزءا لا يتجزأ من المجتمع الحديث في مالي.

ويقول بالاسينيه يارو، عمدة البلدة: “مسجد جينيه يمثل رمزا للتماسك الاجتماعي كل عام، فالمشاركة المجتمعية في أعمال الصيانة والبناء تظهر إحساسا بوحدة المجتمع، كما تعد تعبيرا عن كيفية التعايش”.

يمكنك قراءة الموضوع الأصلي على موقع BBC Travel

المزيد عن :مالي/فنون/فن العمارة/افريقيا

 

 

 

 

 

 

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