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علي جمال الدين – BBC – القاهرة

في أحد شوارع حي فيصل جنوبي العاصمة المصرية، وقبيل انتصاف إحدى ليالي هذا الصيف، مشى العريس محمد بصحبة عروسه نورهان وسط عشرات المهنئين يلقيان التحية ويرفعان أكفهما المخضبة بالحناء.

وقبل وصول العروسين بساعات، علقت الزينة في منطقة الطوابق التي يقطنها الآلاف من أبناء النوبة، ونصب المسرح وأذيعت الألحان الجنوبية عبر مكبّرات ضخمة استعدادا لاستقبال المدعوين.

طقوس تراثية

“ليلة الحنّاء” التي تقام هنا، هي واحدة من عشرات الليالي التي تشهدها القاهرة في صيف كل عام طبقا للتقاليد النوبية. ورغم هجرة عائلتي نورهان ومحمد إلى العاصمة قبل عشرات السنين، إلا أنهما حرصا على أن تقام طقوس زفافهما طبقا للتراث النوبي.

في اليوم العالمي للنوبة: تعرف على أرض الذهب والحضارات

وخطب محمد عروسه نورهان بعد أن تعارفا في مناسبة اجتماعية كهذه.

وقال لبي بي سي “ما يزال التعارف العائلي هو الأساس في اختيار العروس داخل المجتمع النوبي سواء في القاهرة أو في القرى النوبية جنوب البلاد”.

وأردف “لم تفعل وسائل التواصل الاجتماعي في المجتمع النوبي ما فعلته في سائر المجتمعات، ما زلنا نتمتع بأواصر قوية من الوشائج الإنسانية”.

وخلال ليلة الحناء شاهد مراسل بي بي سي الكثير من الفتيات والشباب حديثي السن يتصفحون موقع فيسبوك ويشاركون الصور التي تم التقاطها توّا عبر تطبيق إنستغرام، ومع هذا لا يبدو التعارف عن طريق وسائل التواصل الاجتماعي ذا شعبية كبيرة فعلاً بين أهالي النوبة حتى في المدن الكبرى.

أدخلت العائلات النوبية المهاجرة للقاهرة بعض التعديلات على طقوس الزواج التقليدي

يقول السيد كرار وهو مهاجر نوبي إلى القاهرة ويدير ناديا اجتماعيا في ذات المنطقة “حينما يصل الفتى لسن الزواج تخيره والدته بين الفتيات اللائي وصلن لسن الزواج من بين معارفها بالعائلات النوبية الساكنة في الجوار، وحينما يرتاح قلبه لإحداهن تخطبها عائلته رسمياً”.

صوتها مسموع

وفي السابق، كان الشاب النوبي يصطفي زوجته من بنات عمومته، وربما تحدد العائلة عروسه منذ مولدها، ولا يحق للفتيات الزواج من رجل لا ينتمي للقبائل النوبية إلا في حالات استثنائية نادرة.

لكن هذا التقليد ربما يندثر تماما كما يقول محمد صبحي الخبير بالتراث النوبي.

ويوضح “أصبح صوت الفتاة مسموعا بقوة داخل بيتها خاصة بعد انتشار التعليم الجامعي بين الفتيات، حيث تسافر الطالبة للدراسة في جامعة بمحافظة أخرى وهناك تتعرف على عريسها، كان الأمر يجابَه بممانعة كبيرة في السابق لكن هذا لم يعد يحدث بصورة كبيرة”.

سبع ليال

حسب المعتقدات النوبية تطرد الحناء أي أعمال شريرة وتحمي العروسين من الأعين الحاسدة

وخلال ساعات الليل، تباهت العروس بحليها الذهبية التي أهداها إليها عريسها، كما شهدت ليلة الحناء عدة إطلالات للعروسين، ارتديا في كل إطلالة زيا تقليديا مميزا من أزياء النوبة، وربما هذا ما تبقى رمزا لاحتفال الليالي السبع التي كانت تقام تقليديا قبل ليلة الزفاف. حيث اعتاد الشاب في القرية النوبية الذهاب وسط زفة مبهجة من أصدقائه لدعوة العائلات في القرى المجاورة لعرسه، ويتواصل هذا الطقس لسبع ليال متتاليات. أما العائلات المهاجرة فقد اختصرت الاحتفالات إلى ليلتي الحنّاء والدخلة بسبب الضغوط الاقتصادية على الأرجح.

بعيدًا عن النيل

ويقول محمد صبحي، الذي يدير متحفا للتراث النوبي في محافظة أسوان جنوب مصر “بإمكانك أن تميز العرس النوبي عن غيره من حفلات الزفاف التقليدية من خلال كافة التفاصيل، سواء إيقاع الدفوف أو رقصات المدعوين المحتشمة”.

لكنه استدرك “مع هذا، الكثير من عادات الزواج النوبية طرأ عليها التعديل بعد الهجرة”.

وأردف “لعل أبرز العادات المندثرة تلك المتعلقة بالنيل الذي كان العريس يحرص على غسل الحناء بمياهه، طبقا لمعتقدات ترى النهر يجري تباركه ملائكة الخير والخصوبة”.

وشوهد صديقات العروس وأصدقاء العريس يرقصون، ابتهاجا بهذه الليلة، في حلقات متجاورة لكنها منفصلة.

يقول صبحي ” تقليديا، لم تكن العروس تجلس إلى جانب زوجها في العرس وكانت زفة العريس منفصلة عن فرحة الفتيات بقريبتهن العروس داخل عش الزوجية الجديد، لم نكن نعرف ما يسمى بالكوشة في أعراسنا”.

جُزُر نوبية

ورغم ارتفاع أصوات الأغاني والزغاريد، لم يشكُ أحد من الجيران من الإزعاج، أو يطلب إطفاء المصابيح الوهّاجة، فمعظم سكان الشارع من أقارب العروسين، وهم المدعوون لإحياء هذه الليلة، حيث غالبا ما يفضّل أهل النوبة المهاجرون إلى القاهرة والمدن الكبرى السكنى في بيوت متلاصقة، ما جعل من بعض المناطق في القاهرة الكبرى والأسكندرية كما لو كانت جُزُراً نوبية داخل الأحياء الشعبية التي تحتضنها.

لكن سكت كل شيء بمجرد سماع أذان الفجر، وذهب الرجال لأداء الصلاة، لتستأنف الاحتفالات لاحقا حتى بزوغ أول ضوء للنهار.

لا مغالاة

وتقول سارة يحيى، إحدى المدعوات من قريبات العروس، إن التقاليد الإسلامية مكون رئيسي من الثقافة النوبية المعاصرة، وأردفت “طبقا للتقاليد لا تطلب العروس مهرا ولا تُحرَّر قائمةٌ طويلةٌ لأثاث الزوجية كما تتبارى كثير من العائلات الآن”.

وأرجعت يحيى هذا إلى “القناعة التي تتمتع بها الفتاة النوبية، فحتى الآن لا تعترض الزوجة على العودة للاستقرار في مسقط رأسها أو رأسه إن رغب زوجها في هذا، ليس لدينا متطلبات كبيرة غير حسن العشرة، نحن النوبيات لا نثقل على العريس ولا نكتب حتى مؤخّر صداق لأننا لا نتوقع الانفصال أصلاً”.

فن الكف وارتجال الشعر من أهم تقاليد الزفاف النوبي

لكن سارة يحيى، وهي أيضا مسؤولة في مؤسسة اجتماعية تساعد السيدات المعيلات في القرى النوبية، قالت إن المجتمع النوبي شهد في الآونة الأخيرة تزايد معدلات الطلاق كسائر المجتمعات في مصر.

وقالت لبي بي سي “المرأة في الأعراف النوبية كيان مقدس يعرف الرجل أن منزلتها من منزلته وأن كرامتها من كرامته، لكن العادات والتقاليد النوبية طرأ عليها الكثير من التغير السلبي بفعل الانفجار التكنولوجي، لم يعد الآباء يجدون الوقت الكافي لتوريث آداب التعامل لأبنائهم، وتركوا للإنترنت مهمة التربية فحدثت فجوة كبيرة بين الأجيال”.

وأردفت “نخطط حاليا لإعداد دورات تدريبية للفتيات والشباب المقبلين على الزواج في قرى النوبة لتفادي تعاظم الخلافات الزوجية والحفاظ على مكانة الأسرة النوبية التي تحسدها عليها سائر العائلات”.

المزيد عن : اسلوب الحياة/المجتمع/فنون/مصر/قضايا الشرق الأوسط

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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