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اللذين يخنقان المدينة التي يقطنها حوالي تسعة ملايين نسمة. ويمارس كثير من الإيرانيين، شبانا وكبارا، خلال عطلة نهاية الأسبوع، رياضة التجوال والمشي، حاملين حقائبهم على ظهورهم، ومتكئين على عصيهم، تاركين وراءهم المدينة. ولكن لا مهرب لهم من العقوبات الأمريكية، حتى وهم في أعالي الجبال حيث الهواء النقي. ويتساءل أحد الإيرانيين في تعجب “ومن لا يعاني؟”. وحتى يبرهن على كلامه أظهر لي بطاقة التسلق، التي كانت مدلاة من حزام على وسطه. إنها تكلف الآن أربعة أضعاف السعر الذي كان يدفعه قبل عام. وقد أعاد ترامب فرض العقوبات على إيران العام الماضي، بعد انسحابه، من جانب واحد، من الاتفاق النووي، الذي أبرم عام 2015، بين إيران وست من قوى العالم الكبرى. وقال الرئيس الأمريكي إن الاتفاق كان سخيا بالنسبة إلى إيران، وإنه أعطى البلاد الحرية لتطوير صواريخ ذاتية الدفع (باليستية)، والتدخل في الشرق الأوسط. ويسعى ترامب إلى ممارسة “أقصى ضغط” لإجبار إيران على العودة إلى طاولة التفاوض. ويخشى كثيرون أن يؤدي هذا إلى اندلاع صراع. “الصعوبات توحدنا” إيران غاضبة. فهي تشعر أن الولايات المتحدة خانتها، وأن البلدان الأوروبية، التي لا 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عن الجبال، وفي السفوح حيث يغطي الضباب والغيوم ضواحي طهران الجنوبية المترامية، يشعر السكان أكثر بآثار العقوبات. التجوال والمشي رياضة شائعة في إيران وهنا، حيث توجد متاهة من الأزقة والمنازل المتراصة فوق بعضها بعضا، تقطن الطبقات العاملة في إيران. وكان هؤلاء يعيشون على الهامش حتى قبل العقوبات، لكن العام الأخير دفع بكثير منهم إلى الحافة. فقد ارتفعت أسعار السلع الغذائية أكثر من الضعف، ويكافح كثيرون من أجل العثور على عمل، وتلبية احتياجاتهم، بسبب تراجع الاقتصاد. وتقول زهرة فرزانة، وهي أم لثلاثة أطفال وتعمل في طي الملابس وتتقاضى دولارين في اليوم، إن العقوبات هوت بأسرتها إلى الفقر، وإنها لا تستطيع إطعامها لحما، ولا يمكنها الحصول على دواء للربو الذي تعاني منه. وترسل طفلها ذا الـ11 عاما إلى جمعية خيرية حتى يحصل على وجبة طعام واحدة كل يوم. وما تواجهه من إذلال بسبب طلب المساعدة من الناس يؤلمها كثيرا. وقالت لي: “نشكر الله أن لدينا كسرة خبز وقطعة جبن نطعمهما. على الأقل نحن نعيش في سلام، وليس هناك حرب”. “نحن لا نريد الحرب” ولا يعتقد جميع الإيرانيين، الذين تحدثت إليهم خلال الرحلة، التي استمرت 10 أيام، أن حربا شتنشب مع الولايات المتحدة، بالرغم من التوتر المتزايد بعد لوم واشنطن لإيران على الهجمات على ناقلات نفط في خليج عمان، وإسقاط إيران لطائرة استطلاع أمريكية بلا طيار، فوق مضيق هرمز. وقال نائب وزير الخارجية الإيراني السابق، حسين شيخ الإسلام، إن سبب ذلك هو أن الحرب ليست في مصلحة أحد. إيران تضم اتجهات وآراء متعددة وأضاف: “لن تكون هناك حرب. طبعا من المحتمل أن يرتكب أحد الأشخاص خطأ. لكننا لا نريد الحرب. وأعتقد أن الرئيس ترامب يدرك أن الحرب ليست في صالحه، لأن الحرب علينا تعني قتل جنود أمريكيين، وهو ليس مستعدا لتشييع جنازاتهم في واشنطن”. وفي الجبال مرة أخرى التقيت بشابة، تدعى نسيم، كانت تتجول مع مجموعة من الأصدقاء. وسألتها عن اعتقادها بالنسبة إلى ترامب. رفعت يديها، وقلبت كفيها إلى أعلى، وكأنها تريد أن تقول إنها لا تعلم ماذا تقول. لكن ما قالته في النهاية أدهشني. إذ قالت: “قد يكون من الأفضل لنا أن تندلع الحرب”. فسألتها: لماذا يريد شخص ما اندلاع الحرب؟ التلال توفر راحة من الحر والتلوث اللذين يخنقان طهران فأجابت: “قد تؤدي الحرب إلى حدوث تغير في النظام الحاكم. وقد تؤدي إلى نشوء وضع أفضل. ولكنها إن كانت ستفضي إلى اندلاع حرب أهلية، فلا .. فلن يكون هذا في صالحنا أبدا”. وفي عام 2009، خرج أناس، مثل نسيم، إلى الشوارع احتجاجا، عقب إعادة انتخاب الرئيس محمود أحمدي نجاد آنذاك، المثير للخلاف. ووصفت الاحتجات آنذاك بأنها “ثورة خضراء”، متابعة للون الذي كان يستخدمه أحد مرشحي الرئاسة المعارضين الذين لم يفوزوا، وهو مير حسين موسوي، الذي مازال يعيش قيد الإقامة الجبرية منذ ذلك التاريخ. وقمعت السلطات الاحتجاجات الحاشدة بشدة، وقالت بإصرار إنه ليس في إيران حركة معارضة قوية. ولكن تلك بلاد تتمتع بأراء سياسية متعددة كثيرة. ففيها محافظون متشددون من المتدينين، وليبراليون، وأغلبية لا تريد رفع رؤوسها. ومثل هذا الانقسام هو ما يعول عليه الرئيس ترامب. ولكن لا تدع هذا يخدعك، إذ إن المتشددين هم من يديرون البلاد. ولكن معظم الإيرانيين، سواء محافظين أم ليبراليين، يقدمون بلادهم على مصالحهم الذاتية، حينما تواجههم أمريكا. 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