London Fashion Week: Celebrating 40 years of catwalks

By Alex Taylor and Charlotte GallagherBBC Culture reporters

Stars are striking a pose to celebrate the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week (LFW).

The bi-annual event, originally the brainchild of PR guru Lynne Franks – and now a staple of the global fashion calendar – launched in 1984.

The youngest of the big five fashion weeks, this year’s event brings glitz and glamour to London until Tuesday.

But British Fashion Council chair David Pemsel has said economic challenges are putting pressure on the industry.

Speaking to BBC Breakfast, Mr Pemsel said the cost-of-living crisis, interest rates and Brexit were all creating difficulties for designers and fashion houses.

He insisted, however, that the industry remained “resilient”.

“[Our] quality is really respected in the industry: we’ve got phenomenal designers doing amazing things,” he said.

The anniversary edition of LFW will host 67 designers across 46 catwalks and 36 events, say organisers – with collections by many more up-and-coming designers expected to make an appearance off-grid.

Star attractions include Preen, Richard Quinn, Simone Rocha, Harris Reed, 16Arlington and Emilia Wickstead.

Harry Lambert, the man behind Harry Styles’ makeover and Emma Corrin’s wardrobe, is also set to cause a stir.

Continuing tradition, Burberry is slated to close the official programme on Monday, with Daniel Lee’s collection.

Striking a (lasting) pose

On Thursday night, some of London’s best-known landmarks, including Covent Garden, the London Eye and the Royal Opera House, were lit up in green to mark the start of the LFW anniversary celebrations.

Throughout the decades, LFW has showcased established, and emerging, British talent – from supermodels Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, to iconic designers including Matthew Williamson, Stella McCartney and the late Alexander McQueen.

Lynne Franks, who provided the inspiration for Absolutely Fabulous character Edina Monsoon, says she pushed for a fashion week in London out of frustration – intent on giving the city a dedicated floorspace to promote its prowess, in keeping with other fashion capitals such as New York, Milan, Paris and Tokyo.

“We were not on the international calendar at all,” she told the Evening Standard. “I thought, if they can do it, why can’t we?”

Although smaller than its peers in Milan, Paris and New York – which routinely boast international fashion giants – London continues to be known for its unique style and daring.

“It’s much more innovative,” Betty Jackson, a designer at the first LFW, told the BBC. “I do think we have the best ideas, really. And we’re fearless.

“A lot of of inspiration, I think, comes from young people wearing stuff on the street, and wearing things in a different way,” she said.

The British Fashion Council’s NewGen initiative continues to support the next generation of designers, while Friday’s Central Saint Martins MA show provides a platform for the London art school’s brightest young stars.

Memorable moments from London Fashion Week

Shalom Harlow’s spray-paint dress (1999)

Victor Virgile

In one of the most visually arresting moments amid McQueen’s myriad runway shows, two robots spray-painted a dress worn by the model Shalom Harlow.

Speaking to the Metropolitan Museum of Art about the experience, Harlow said she did not directly discuss the set piece with the designer ahead of show.

“I like to think that he wanted to interfere as little as possible and allow me to have the most genuine, spontaneous experience as possible,” the model told the Met.

Queen Elizabeth II joins Wintour in front row (2018)

Getty Images

Fashion royalty met the real thing, when Queen Elizabeth II joined Anna Wintour at British designer Richard Quinn’s runway show in 2018.

The late queen, then 91, appeared, all smiles, dressed in a turquoise blazer.

Writing a tribute piece for Vogue following Elizabeth II’s death in 2022, Wintour said the late queen was “so delighted to be there, telling me how she had appeared in a fashion show long before she became Queen”.

She continued: “She said it with joy and humour that bounded around the room, lighting it up: An everyday occurrence for Her Majesty, an unforgettable one for the rest of us.”

Alexander McQueen dances down the catwalk (1997)

Alexis Duclos

The late fashion designer lit up LFW countless times with his creativity, but in 1997 enjoyed his own rare moment on the catwalk.

Dressed in a casual polo shirt and jeans – a counterpoint to his dramatic fashion creations – the beloved British designer danced down the runway at the end of his show to the rapturous applause of his models and audience.

Hussein Chalayan’s coffee table dress (2000)

Reuters

Hussein Chalayan is famous for his experimental designs, but none have captured the global imagination quite like his coffee table dress.

As models strode around a living room, one stood atop the coffee table that, in an eye-popping moment of industrial design, transformed into a wooden hooped skirt when she lifted it up.

Despite its theatrical edge, the show held a serious underlying message. Inspired by refugees of war, the interplay between furniture and clothing drew parallels with those forced to flee their homes, carrying their worldly possessions on their backs.

Prince struts his stuff (2007)

Getty Images

Singer Prince made a career out of flamboyance – in his music and his fashion choices – so, in some ways, his surprise appearance at LFW makes perfect sense. Not that anybody expected it.

The star, who was in the capital to play at the 02 Arena, snuck in virtually unnoticed ahead of Matthew Williamson’s 2007 show – only to start singing from the front row, before jumping on stage to perform his track Chelsea Rodgers. According to The Telegraph, there was method to his madness: the song was dedicated to his namesake girlfriend at the time… a model who just so happened to be a fan of Williamson.

Fashion show, gig, immersive love letter – or a mixture of the three? Either way, very Prince.

London Fashion Week contributes £21bn to the UK economy, and employs more than 900,000 people, according to the British Fashion Council’s latest industry report.

Last year, sales of womenswear were valued at an estimated £30.9bn, with menswear sales estimated at £15bn, Mintel figures show.

Prime Minister Rishi Sunak praised the sector this week for its contribution, reiterating its value to the UK economy. “It generates a huge amount for the coffers, and has global resonance in terms of creativity and reputation in this country,” he told the Evening Standard.

“It’s an opportunity to reach into new markets – to remind everyone of the power of fashion week and the power of businesses that participate,” he added.

However, McKinsey’s State of Fashion report warns of “strong economic headwinds” for the year ahead, with fashion houses facing “subdued economic growth, persistent inflation and weak consumer confidence”.

Mr Sunak frustrated fashion industry leaders by scrapping tax-free shopping when he was chancellor in 2021.

He has retained the policy as prime minister, despite repeated calls from the British Fashion Council, bosses of several large fashion brands and retailers to re-instate the tax break.

London/Fashion