ذهبت في زيارة واحدة إلى المدن الفرنسيّة الصغيرة الّتي تُدعى “لا روش سوريون”، وكانت شديدة الهدوء وجبليّة نوعًا ما، ذكّرتني بقُرى سويسرا؛ فالقرميد ممتدّ أمامك تدريجيًّا من أسفل إلى أعلى…
لا أستطيع أن أدخل مكانًا جديدًا، من دون أن يقارن عقلي الأماكن في ذاكرتي بالمكان الجديد، بمجرّد أن أخطو إليه، وكأنّها خوارزميّات تحاول تصفية النتيجة، مستعينة بالقلب والرائحة والألوان.
اكتشفت بمساعدة أحد المؤرّخين الشباب في غزّة، الّذي لم يخرج منها قطّ، أنّ هذه المدينة كان اسمها “مدينة نابليون”، لأنّه أعاد بناءها على الطريقة الحديثة الخماسيّة الزوايا؛ أي تنقسم إلى أربعة أحياء حول ساحة مركزيّة مستطيلة، وذلك بعد أن دُمّرت خلال الحروب في القرن الخامس عشر، ثمّ أُحرقت في القرن الثامن عشر، وبقيت محلّ نزاع بين إنجلترا وفرنسا خلال حرب المئة عام.
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هذا البحر باهت رماديّ، بلا رائحة، إنّي أبحث عن البحر في البحر، أو بالأحرى أبحث عن بحري أنا الّذي أعرفه، مشينا بجانب المراكب طويلًا… كانت الريح قويّة، إنّه المحيط الأطلنطيّ
لم أتوقّع أنّ هذه المدينة الوادعة الجميلة، تحمل كلّ هذا التاريخ من الألم والخراب، وأنّه يمكن الأماكن أن تتخلّص من ذاكرة الحرب؛ فقد جئت من مدينة لا تزال تعيش المرحلة الأولى من التاريخ الحديث، أي الاستعمار، وتجاهد من أجل إعادة الإعمار.
ولم تكن هذه المفاجأة الوحيدة، بل عرفت لاحقًا أنّ البحر غير بعيد؛ فلا يخطر ببالك أنّ الساحل قد يقع بالقرب من هذه الأشجار المنسّقة، إلّا أنّ صديقيّ الفرنسيَّين كاترين وبيير اقترحا عليّ زيارة الشاطئ الّذي يُسمّى “Les Sables-d’Olonne”.
سعادة غير متوقّعة، خاصّة أنّ آخر مرّة رأيت بحرًا فيها، كان البحر الأبيض المتوسّط على شواطئ غزّة، ثمّ البحر الأحمر حين غادرتها إلى مصر عام 2016، ومن هناك جئت فرنسا، وانقطعت عن البحر، بل أصبح ذكرى ذهبت مع الماضي، وابتلعته الأيّام كما ابتلعت ذاكرة الأماكن في غزّة، وكأن لا بحر سواه.
قادت بنا كاترين سيّارتها الصغيرة بهدوء، وأغاني ألبوم سعاد ماسي “المتكلّمون” تصدح في السيّارة، وفكّرت في أنّها جرأة من ماسي أن تُصدر ألبومًا كلّه باللغة الفصيحة، وتغلب عليه نبرة ساخرة، ولجمهور أغلبه يعيش في أوروبّا.
كاترين تسألني عن معنى الأغاني، فأجبتها: “أنا أحاول أن أفهمها”، تغنّي سعاد: “جئت لا أعلم من أين، لكنّي أتيت، ولقد أبصرت قدّامي طريقًا فمشيت، وسأبقى ماشيًا إن شئت هذا أم أبيت… كيف جئت؟ كيف أبصرت طريقي؟”.
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سخر بيير من قيادة كاترين لسيّارتها، ما جعلها تسألني إذا ما كانت سيّئة فعلًا؟ فاستغربت؛ لأنّها كانت قيادة سلسة ومتّزنة، يبدو أنّ بيير يقود سيّارته كالسلاحف.
إلّا أنّ بحر غزّة ليس بهذا “الرواق” على الدوام، وربّما يبقى أجمل عن بعد من دون الدخول إليه؛ فهو في الذهنيّة المحلّيّة يساوي كثيرًا من المحرّمات، وليس منذ حكومة “حماس” فقط، بل منذ وقت طويل.
المفترَض أنّنا وصلنا، بيير يُشير… هناك البحر، لكنّي لم أرَ شيئًا، اقتربت السيّارة ولم أره أو أشتمّ شيئًا، نزلنا من السيّارة… مشينا… لم أرَ بحرًا أيضًا، اقتربت أكثر، حذّرتني كاترين وبيير من السقوط: “تستطيعين القفز… بعد انتهاء محاضرتك”، قالاها معًا وهما يضحكان، لكنّي فعلًا لم أرَ البحر، لم أشمّه، يبدو أنّ ثمّة بحرًا واحدًا في ذاكرتي، أنتظر ما يشبهه تمامًا.
هذا البحر باهت رماديّ، بلا رائحة، إنّي أبحث عن البحر في البحر، أو بالأحرى أبحث عن بحري أنا الّذي أعرفه، مشينا بجانب المراكب طويلًا… كانت الريح قويّة، إنّه المحيط الأطلنطيّ، لكنّه ليس بجمال البحر الأبيض المتوسّط، يبدو أنّ البحار غير متشابهة على الإطلاق.
أعلنت كاترين أنّها ستأخذني إلى الشاطئ الطبيعيّ بعد أن بدوت مُحبَطة، ركبنا السيّارة من جديد، وصلنا إلى الشاطئ الّذي يبدو عظيمًا لكنّه لا يزال مختلفًا، وبلا اللون أو الرائحة الّتي أعرفها، لكنّي رأيت للمرّة الأولى زبد البحر، طفلة تجمعه بشبكة صغيرة وتركض … هي تصطاد الرغوة الّتي سرعان ما تطير، وأنا أصطاد رائحة قديمة، وكلتاهما تبدوان وهمًا…
كلّما نظرت إليه وإلى الطيور البعيدة، وإلى الطفلة الراكضة، أردت أن أعيش اللحظة، هممت أن أتأمّل، تأخذني الرغبة للكتابة، لكن يتراءى لي بحر غزّة، صوت الناس من على الميناء، والكراسيّ البلاستيكيّة على الرمل، ورائحة القهوة بالهيل.
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إلّا أنّ بحر غزّة ليس بهذا “الرواق” على الدوام، وربّما يبقى أجمل عن بعد من دون الدخول إليه؛ فهو في الذهنيّة المحلّيّة يساوي كثيرًا من المحرّمات، وليس منذ حكومة “حماس” فقط، بل منذ وقت طويل.
يقول سليم تماري في كتابه “الجبل ضدّ البحر”: “في فلسطين، وصلت العداوة نحو البحر ذروتها خلال سنوات الانتفاضة، وخاصّة الأعوام بين 1989 و1992؛ حين تضافرت القوى الوطنيّة والإسلاميّة على إبعاد المتنزّهين، رجالًا ونساءً، من شواطئ غزّة ورفح وخان يونس. وفي منشور تكرّرت فحواه لاحقًا، دعت ‘القيادة الموحّدة للانتفاضة‘، في 25 أبريل 1990، إلى التمسّك بالأخلاق والحشمة، وأدانت بكلمات صارمة أولئك ’الّذين يرومون شواطئ البحر… ويتعرّضون لقيمنا وتقاليدنا وأخلاقنا، غير آبهين بدماء الشهداء‘”.
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في الثلاثينات إلى منتصف الأربعينات في فلسطين، كان البحر بديلًا لمأساة فلسطين ونكبتها في الأدب والحياة؛ إذ كانت اللحظات الحاسمة في تغلغل الحداثة البحريّة
ويضيف تماري أنّ “ثقافة الحزن المقاوم” أو “المقاومة الحزينة”، المُعزَّزة بأخلاقيّات دينيّة صارمة، ليست غريبة عن سواحل المتوسّط الشرقيّة؛ فقد وُجدت عبر القرون في اليونان ويوغسلافيا ومقدونيا والأناضول، في تجمّعات مسيحيّة وإسلاميّة.
أمّا كيف يبدو بحر غزّة في أوقات الحرب، فقد خلطَت الأخيرة في ذاكرتي الموت بالبحر؛ فالقصف هناك على الشاطئ يبدو مرعبًا أكثر من داخل المدينة؛ الرمال مهجورة، صدى القصف يرتدّ إليك… طعم الخوف تتذوّقه في فمك مع ملوحة الريح، تعتقد للحظة أنّ هيبة البحر ستمنع ذلك، إلّا أنّ الموت يأتي واسعًا وأقوى منها كثيرًا، فحادثة أطفال بكر الّذين استهدفهم الاحتلال وهم يلعبون الكرة مقابل الأمواج، أكثر ما رأيته غريبًا ومتناقضًا وحيًّا في الوقت ذاته في حرب الـ 2014، وقد قادتني الصدفة هناك وقتذاك.
في الثلاثينات إلى منتصف الأربعينات في فلسطين، كان البحر بديلًا لمأساة فلسطين ونكبتها في الأدب والحياة؛ إذ كانت اللحظات الحاسمة في تغلغل الحداثة البحريّة، وبدأت هذه العلاقة بين الذات والبحر وبين المجتمع والبحر، تأخذ الحيّز الطبيعيّ في التاريخ. قال عنها الأديب الفلسطينيّ إحسان عبّاس، في سيرته الذاتيّة “غربة الراعي”: “في تلك العطلة اكتشفنا البحر المقابل لبلدنا، كنّا نراه ونحن في القرية، ولكن الآن أصبحنا نسافر إليه… نركب خيولنا ونذهب إلى شواطئ صرفند، أو كفرلام، أو الطنطورة”.
يقول سليم تماري في كتابه الآنف ذكره: “حتّى أبناء يافا الّذين تعلّموا السباحة بعد الحرب العالميّة الأولى، بقيت علاقتهم بالبحر إشكاليّة؛ ففي كتابه ’أيّام الصبا‘، يوضّح المحامي الفلسطينيّ يوسف هيكل أنّ البحر كان للتنزّه بالدرجة الأولى، ولمراقبة الفتيات المتمشّيات على رمال الشاطئ… كما تكلّم المؤرّخ هشام شرابي على الأربعينات في عكّا ويافا كأنّها مكان آخر، وفي الواقع أنّه زمان آخر”.
لم أسبح في الأطلنطيّ؛ فأحيانًا تمنعك الريح الباردة وليس فقط المراسيم الوطنيّة، عدنا بالسيّارة إلى سعاد ماسي وفصيحتها، وإلى جدل بيير وكاترين حول القيادة، وصلنا، “تكتكنا” الرمال عن ملابسنا، وحضّرنا أنفسنا كي نذهب إلى الندوة…
- أسماء الغول
- كاتبة فلسطينيّة مقيمة في فرنسا، صدر لها كتاب مشترك مع الروائيّ سليم نصيب ” L’insoumise de Gaza” (2016)، تُرجم إلى الإنجليزيّة والروسيّة، ولها مجموعات قصصيّة أخرى مشتركة صدرت في كوريا الجنوبيّة وبريطانيا. حصلت مجموعتها القصصيّة الأولى “هجران على لوح أسود” على “جائزة الكاتب الشابّ“، من مؤسّسة عبد المحسن القطّان عام 2006.
المزيد عن : فرنسا /غزة /المحيط الأطلطني /إحسان عباس /سليم تماري /الفلسطينيون /الحداثة /السباحة/الجبل ضد البحر /غربة الراعي
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